How to Applique on Fabric

I have had several people ask how to applique on fabric. First, applique refers to the technique in which pieces of fabric are sewn onto another piece of fabric to create a design, pattern, or picture. It is a great way to add personalization to fabric when you do not have an embroidery machine or just for a more dimensional look.

Pick design: To start, you need to find a design for your applique that can be broken down into basic shapes. You can draw your own creation onto paper, use a stencil, coloring book page, or print pictures from the computer. There are also free applique templates online and many for very reasonable prices online. To make your own pattern, simply trace the shapes onto a piece of paper. If it is a design that you think you might use often, such as letters, you can also trace the pattern pieces onto poster board so that it keeps longer as a pattern.

Fabric selection: For the applique, you want to choose fabrics that will compliment or contract. Be creative- no one said that all grass is green or that owls cannot be patterned.

For the tutorial, each picture number corresponds with the step for the instructions.

Step 1: Choose one piece of your pattern and cut a piece of double-sided paper-backed fusible web (like Wonder-Under) slightly larger than the pattern piece. Trace the pattern onto the paper side of the Wonder-Under. Remember: if appliqueing letters or numbers to trace the pattern backwards. In other words, on the paper side of the Wounder-Under, flip the "k" so that it is backwards. This way when the letter is cut, it be the correct way- "k".

Step 2: Place the Wonder-Under rough side down (paper side up) onto the wrong side of the fabric. Remember the paper side of the Wonder-Under is to the iron! Otherwise, you will have a big mess to clean off of the iron.

Step 3: Leaving extra "paper", cut around the traced designs on the Wounder-Under. Adhere the Wounder-Under to the fabric by pressing your hot iron onto the paper. Follow manufacturers directions for the Wounder-Under.

Step 4: It should only take a couple of seconds- just long enough to adhere it securely.

Step 5: Cut out the wonder-undered fabric patterns and take off the paper backing.

Step 6: Repeat the above steps until you have all of your pieces that you want to applique backed with wonder-under and cut out.

Step 7: At this point you should have all of your pattern pieces with Wonder-Under adhered on the back. The paper backing should have been taken off each piece. Arrange the applique pieces onto the background fabric. Remember that applique is a layering technique with one piece laying on top of another.

Step 8: Take off all but the bottom pieces of applique and iron those bottom pieces onto your fabric. Be sure to sew any pieces that go under the applique prior to ironing on the applique. See how the "u" in blue is partly onto of he blue fabric square?

Having the fabric fused to your background will ensure that the fabric pieces will stay in place as you sew around them. Some people think there is no reason to sew around the applique pieces if you have fused them onto fabric. However, unless you plan to never wash the applique, I would secure he pieces by sewing around the edges. This also prevents the fabric from pulling away from the background fabric and potentially coming off.

Step 9: Next we sew around the applique pieces.  I usually use a zig-zag stitch (#2 in the photo) but you can also use a blanket stitch or satin stitch. 

Step 10:  Set the stitch length and width you desire for the look you want.  I suggest trying several different lengths and widths to get the look you want.

Step 11: Stitch around each piece.

Step 12:  Because felt "melts" when it is ironed, with fusible web or Wonder-Under should not be added to the back of the felt pieces. They have enough body to stand along by themselves. If you do need to iron cotton pieces to felt, turn your iron to a very low, dry, heat. Test a small piece to make sure it does not melt. (This is not pictured as I did not have any felt that I used in this applique design.)

Step 13:  Soon you will have your completed applique...



I hope this helps explain a little about appliqueing.  If you have more questions I can answer, please let me know. 

In the next couple of months at Sewing Cafe we will be appliqueing on three different sized zippered pouches.  Learn how to applique and how to put in a zipper during class!